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How to Improve & Protect Your Skin Health & Appearance | Dr. Teo Soleymani

Episode 190 Aug 19, 2024 2h 46m 22 insights
In this episode, my guest is Dr. Teo Soleymani, M.D., a double-board-certified dermatologist and specialist in skin cancer and reconstructive surgery. We discuss science and clinically supported protocols to improve skin health and give your skin a more youthful appearance and structure, reducing premature aging and skin cancer risk. We discuss the impact of sun exposure on skin appearance and aging and the surprising relationship between sun exposure and skin cancer. We explain how mineral-based (inorganic) sunscreens differ from chemical (organic) sunscreens, whether sunscreen can minimize premature skin aging, reduce cancer risk, and if there are any health risks associated with sunscreen use. We discuss skincare routines to significantly improve skin appearance and how to select skincare products. We discuss how caffeine, nicotine, alcohol, and stress impact the skin and describe how nutrition and anti-inflammatory diets can improve skin health. We also discuss the causes and treatments for common skin conditions, including dandruff, acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, and vitiligo. Our conversation also covers topics such as the use of retinoids, laser treatments, red-light phototherapy, supplements, and how to best monitor for skin cancer. This episode provides numerous actionable protocols, most of which are zero-to-low cost, for improving skin health and appearance, reducing cancer risk, and treating skin problems. Access the full show notes for this episode at hubermanlab.com. Pre-order Andrew's new book, Protocols, at protocolsbook.com.
Actionable Insights

1. Get Annual Skin Checks

Schedule an annual full-body skin exam with a board-certified dermatologist to survey for skin cancers, as they can develop anywhere, including sun-protected areas, and early detection is crucial.

2. Use Prescription Retinoids

Obtain a prescription-strength retinoid (e.g., tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene) from a dermatologist, as these effectively increase skin turnover, reduce skin cancer risk, and promote collagen and elastin growth for healthier, more youthful skin. Over-the-counter retinols are generally ineffective.

3. Avoid Nicotine Products

Refrain from all nicotine use, including smoking, vaping, and oral products, because it causes chronic vasoconstriction, leading to accelerated skin aging, poor wound healing, and a net negative impact on skin health.

4. Adopt Anti-Inflammatory Diet

Consume a high-protein, complete protein, anti-inflammatory diet, prioritizing animal-sourced proteins, fruits, and vegetables, to improve overall skin health and reduce the severity of inflammatory conditions like psoriasis, eczema, and acne.

5. Moderate Sun Exposure

Expose yourself to some sunlight for overall wellness and mood benefits, but always avoid burning or prolonged exposure that causes skin redness, as excessive UV can lead to premature aging and skin damage.

6. Prioritize Physical Sun Barriers

Utilize physical barriers such as shade, protective clothing (long sleeves, pants), and hats as they are consistently shown to be more effective than topical sunscreens for comprehensive UV protection.

7. Choose Mineral Sunscreens

Select mineral-based sunscreens containing zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide (SPF 30+, broad-spectrum) over chemical sunscreens, due to concerns about chemical absorption into the bloodstream and potential endocrine disruption.

8. Limit Alcohol Consumption

Reduce or avoid alcohol intake, especially higher concentrations, as it acts as a mild diuretic, causing skin dehydration and hollowing, and can disrupt the gut microbiome, negatively impacting skin health.

9. Use Gentle, Fragrance-Free Cleansers

Cleanse your skin with mild, fragrance-free, hypoallergenic, and non-comedogenic products (e.g., Dove white bar soap, Cetaphil), and avoid over-cleansing, which strips natural oils and eradicates the beneficial skin microbiome.

10. Do Not Pop Pimples

Refrain from picking or popping pimples, as this physical trauma recruits matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) that break down collagen and elastin, leading to permanent acne scars.

11. Get HPV Vaccination

Consider getting the Gardasil vaccine, which covers cancer-causing HPV strains, as HPV is increasingly linked to various cancers, including squamous cell carcinomas in sun-protected areas, and guidelines now extend to adults up to their late 40s.

12. Select Appropriate Moisturizer

Choose a non-comedogenic moisturizer tailored to your skin type; use greasier ointments for dry or eczema-prone skin, and lighter lotions for acne-prone skin, to provide effective barrier protection and minimize water loss.

13. Adjust Showering Frequency

Shower and cleanse your skin based on its oiliness and your activity level; daily cleansing is not medically necessary for everyone, especially older individuals or those with dry skin, but always cleanse after sweating.

14. Treat Dry/Flaky Scalp

For dandruff (seborrheic dermatitis) or psoriasis, use shampoos containing zinc or ketoconazole to reduce yeast overgrowth, or consult a dermatologist for topicals to dampen the immune response, without damaging hair.

15. Choose Cost-Effective Skincare

Opt for simple, inexpensive skincare products, as more expensive options are not necessarily better and often contain additional ingredients, including fragrances, that can be problematic for skin.

16. Consider Oral Sun Protection

Supplement with polypodium (50-480mg daily or an hour before sun exposure) to increase your skin’s tolerance to UV, reduce burn risk, and help block the effects of visible light, especially useful for sun-sensitive conditions or when topical sunscreen reapplication is difficult.

17. Adjust Diet for Acne

Avoid high glycemic index foods, sugary processed foods, and nonfat/skim dairy products, as these can increase insulin response and inflammation, exacerbating acne flares.

18. Manage Rosacea Triggers

Identify and avoid personal triggers for rosacea flushing and redness, such as UV light, spicy foods, hot beverages, and emotional stress, and consult a dermatologist for persistent breakouts or redness.

19. Diligent Eczema Management

For eczema, consistently moisturize with occlusive products (e.g., ointments) to repair the skin barrier, avoid environmental allergens and fragrances, and consult a dermatologist for topical or systemic treatments to calm the immune system.

20. Consider Non-Ablative Laser Resurfacing

Explore non-ablative fractionated laser resurfacing with a dermatologist, as it can improve skin appearance, reduce skin cancer risk by activating genes for youthful, healthy skin cells, and has less downtime than ablative lasers.

21. Use High-Powered Red Light Panels

Consider using high-powered red light and near-infrared light panels to improve vascular flow, aid post-procedure recovery, support hair regrowth, and potentially offer pre-treatment protection against UV damage.

22. Ensure Safe Tattoo Practices

If getting tattoos, ensure the artist uses clean, sterile equipment and be aware that certain colors (e.g., reds with cinemates) can cause allergic reactions; regular skin checks by a dermatologist are crucial for tattooed skin due to challenges in mole surveillance.