← The Peter Attia Drive

#355 – Skincare strategies, the science of facial aging, and cosmetic-intervention guidance | Tanuj Nakra, M.D. & Suzan Obagi, M.D.

Jun 30, 2025 2h 57m 47 insights
<p><a href="https://peterattiamd.com/tanujnakraandsuzanobagi/?utm_source=podcast-feed&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=250630-pod-tanujnakraandsuzanobagi&amp;utm_content=250630-pod-tanujnakraandsuzanobagi-podfeed"> View the Show Notes Page for This Episode</a></p> <p><a href="https://peterattiamd.com/subscribe/?utm_source=podcast-feed&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=250630-pod-tanujnakraandsuzanobagi&amp;utm_content=250630-pod-tanujnakraandsuzanobagi-podfeed"> Become a Member to Receive Exclusive Content</a></p> <p><a href="https://peterattiamd.com/newsletter/?utm_source=podcast-feed&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=250630-pod-tanujnakraandsuzanobagi&amp;utm_content=250630-pod-tanujnakraandsuzanobagi-podfeed"> Sign Up to Receive Peter's Weekly Newsletter</a></p> <p>Tanuj Nakra and Suzan Obagi, two leading experts in aesthetic medicine, join Peter to explore the science of facial aging and skin health as well as the responsibilities physicians face in the world of cosmetic procedures. In this episode, they examine the biological and hormonal drivers of facial aging, the evolutionary and psychological foundations of attractiveness, and the impact of modern media on beauty standards. They discuss the rise in cosmetic procedures among adolescents and the ethical responsibilities of physicians in these cases. The conversation then shifts to a practical, evidence-based guide to skin health—covering the use of mineral sunscreens, retinoids, vitamin C, and tailored skincare routines, as well as the management of acne and the psychology behind aesthetic consultations. The episode culminates in a candid, personal assessment of Peter's own face, offering a revealing look at what aesthetic medicine can achieve and how to think critically about pursuing it.</p> <p><strong>We discuss:</strong></p> <ul type="disc"> <li>Tanuj's and Suzan's training and expertise, and the evolving field of aesthetic medicine [4:00];</li> <li>The biology of the aging face [10:45];</li> <li>Why facial fat atrophies with age while body fat tends to accumulate [17:00];</li> <li>How chronic stress accelerates facial aging [20:30];</li> <li>The evolutionary biology of beauty, and how modern lifestyle, culture, and medicine interact with these ancient aesthetic instincts [25:30];</li> <li>How social media and influencers have rapidly shifted aesthetic trends toward exaggerated features and unrealistic beauty standards [36:45];</li> <li>The ethical challenges, financial incentives, and social pressures shaping modern aesthetic medicine [42:00];</li> <li>The concerning trend of teenagers seeking cosmetic enhancements: the ethical and cultural impact of early beauty pressure [51:45];</li> <li>Protecting the skin: UV damage and sunscreen recommendations [58:15];</li> <li>Strategies for minimizing skin aging: retinoids, vitamin C, and evidence-based application methods [1:09:00];</li> <li>Effective daily skincare routine: cleansing, antioxidants, retinoids, moisturization, and more [1:18:45];</li> <li>The playbook for managing acne [1:31:00];</li> <li>The 4 changes of aging and the complexities of aesthetic consultations including the anatomical, psychological, and ethical factors physicians must navigate [1:39:00];</li> <li>The 5 R's of rejuvenation [1:50:15];</li> <li>A facial aging analysis and cosmetic strategy using Peter's face as a real-time case study [1:53:00];</li> <li>The decision-making process between fat grafting and dermal fillers for facial rejuvenation [1:56:30];</li> <li>How self-image, eye aesthetics, and fleeting photos drive the desire for cosmetic enhancement [2:01:45];</li> <li>Advice for wrinkles, causes of dark circles under the eyes, and the importance of facial symmetry [2:05:45];</li> <li>Considerations that shape clinical decision making around fat grafting and other procedures to address the eye area [2:11:00];</li> <li>The evolution of facial cosmetic surgery techniques, the serious risks involved, and how physician skill and procedure selection greatly impact outcomes [2:21:30];</li> <li>How patients can make informed and safe choices when selecting a cosmetic surgeon [2:27:15];</li> <li>A comparison of ablative versus non-ablative skin resurfacing treatments, laser vs. peels, and more [2:38:45];</li> <li>How treatments are chosen and customized based on patient-specific factors [2:48:00];</li> <li>The lifelong human desire to align physical appearance with self-identity [2:52:45]; and</li> <li>More.</li> </ul> <p>Connect With Peter on <a href="https://twitter.com/PeterAttiaMD">Twitter</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/peterattiamd/">Instagram</a>, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/peterattiamd/">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8kGsMa0LygSX9nkBcBH1Sg">YouTube</a></p>
Actionable Insights

1. Commit to Daily Skin Routine

Commit to a consistent daily skin routine as a fundamental step towards improving skin health and appearance, even if more advanced procedures are not pursued.

2. Use Mineral Sunscreen Daily

Use mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) daily for superior UV protection, as chemical sunscreens may degrade quickly and cause reactive oxygen species.

3. Incorporate Nightly Retinoid

Incorporate a retinoid (retinol, retinaldehyde, or prescription retinoic acid) into your nightly skincare routine to boost collagen, normalize melanocyte function, and improve skin cell turnover.

4. Apply Antioxidant Serum Twice Daily

Apply an antioxidant serum (like Vitamin C) both in the morning (before sunscreen) and at night (before retinoid) to combat daily environmental damage and aid skin repair.

5. Use Gentle Glycerin Cleanser

Use a gentle, glycerin-based cleanser that doesn’t overly strip the skin’s natural oils, as harsh cleansers can cause inflammation and disrupt the skin’s microbiome.

6. Use Separate Facial Cleanser

Do not use body soap on your face; instead, use a separate facial cleanser to avoid stripping essential oils and causing irritation.

7. Apply Skincare Thinnest to Thickest

When applying skincare products, always go from the thinnest consistency to the thickest (e.g., serum first, then retinoid, then moisturizer) for optimal absorption.

8. Measure Retinoid with Fingertip

Apply a ‘fingertip unit’ (from the tip of your index finger to your DIP joint) of retinoid every night to ensure you’re using the correct amount for efficacy.

9. Apply Retinoid to Eyes/Neck

Apply retinoid to the entire face, including the under-eye area (avoiding direct contact with eyes), once a week on upper eyelids, and 1-2 times a week on the neck to boost collagen and elastin in these thin-skinned areas.

10. Persist with Daily Retinoid Use

If starting retinoic acid, persist with daily use, even through initial irritation, as the skin acclimates within 6-8 weeks, allowing you to reap full benefits.

11. Gradually Introduce Retinoids

If sensitive, start with a milder retinoid (like retinaldehyde) 5 days a week and a stronger one (retinoic acid) 2 days a week, gradually increasing the stronger retinoid as skin acclimates.

12. Mitigate Retinoid Irritation

To avoid retinoid irritation, start 2-3 times a week and gradually increase to nightly use, or mix it with 1% hydrocortisone cream during the initial weeks.

13. Deeply Moisturize Skin Nightly

Apply a deep moisturizer, like Aquaphor (petroleum jelly), nightly to thicken the skin, improve barrier function, and reduce fine lines by increasing hydration.

14. Prioritize Topical Skin Antioxidants

Prioritize topical application of antioxidants for skin health, as the skin’s ability to absorb them directly far exceeds what can be achieved through dietary intake.

15. Invest in Quality Vitamin C

When purchasing Vitamin C serum, be prepared to spend more for higher quality, stable formulations that ensure bioavailability and efficacy, unlike cheaper options that degrade quickly.

16. Treat Acne Early to Prevent Scars

Address acne, especially inflammatory or cystic acne, early and aggressively to prevent permanent scarring, which can cause long-term psychological distress.

17. Avoid Picking At Acne

Avoid picking at acne, as this can worsen inflammation and lead to scarring, especially with inflammatory or pustular lesions.

18. Accutane for Cystic Acne

For cystic acne, consider systemic treatments like Accutane (isotretinoin) or photodynamic therapy, as topical treatments are often ineffective for this severe form of acne.

19. Manage Oily Skin with Accutane

If you have very oily skin, consider a short course (e.g., one month per year) of Accutane (isotretinoin) to reduce oil production, tighten pores, and improve skin texture, as oil can be inflammatory.

20. Manage Stress for Facial Volume

Manage cortisol levels through sleep and stress-reducing lifestyles, as chronic stress can contribute to rapid facial volume loss and skin aging.

21. HRT for Facial Bone Health

Women, especially in their early 40s, should consider hormone replacement therapy (HRT) to help maintain facial bone structure and prevent accelerated aging, particularly in the lower face.

22. Invest in Aesthetic Self-Care Now

Seriously consider investing in aesthetic self-care now, rather than waiting, as proactive measures can prevent more drastic interventions later and align with a healthy longevity lifestyle.

23. Research Aesthetic Procedures Thoroughly

Take ownership of your aesthetic journey by thoroughly researching your anatomy and all available techniques, consulting multiple sources (especially reputable society websites), and avoiding secondhand information.

24. Understand 5 R’s Rejuvenation

Understand the ‘5 R’s of rejuvenation’ (relax muscles, refill volume, resurface skin, redrape tissue, renew/maintain) as a comprehensive framework for addressing facial aging, prioritizing skin health first.

25. Prioritize Home Skincare

Emphasize consistent at-home skincare regimens to maximize results and reduce the need for frequent or extensive in-office aesthetic procedures.

26. Ensure Board-Certified Practitioner

When choosing an aesthetic practitioner, ensure they have proper training and board certification in the specific area of the procedure you are considering.

27. Verify Aesthetic Provider Qualifications

Always verify the qualifications of aesthetic providers and ensure a physician oversees all treatments to mitigate risks and ensure proper management of complications.

28. Choose Experienced Surgeons

For complex procedures like rhinoplasty or facelifts, choose a surgeon who performs at least 25 of those specific procedures per year to ensure adequate experience.

29. Seek Facial Aesthetic Specialists

For facial aesthetic procedures, prioritize specialists who focus primarily on the face and do not perform body cosmetic surgery, as facial surgery requires a distinct skill set.

30. Choose Evolving Aesthetic Practitioners

Select an aesthetic practitioner who is actively involved in advancing the field (e.g., publishing, lecturing, teaching) to ensure they are using the most current and effective techniques.

31. Ask About Complication Rates

Ask potential surgeons about their complication rates and how they manage them, as a willingness to discuss this can indicate skill and experience.

32. Trust Ethical Aesthetic Physicians

Seek physicians who prioritize ethical practice and patient well-being over simply fulfilling every patient request, especially when it involves drastic or unnatural transformations.

33. Beware Aesthetic Financial Incentives

Be cautious when seeking aesthetic treatments, understanding that many providers have substantial financial incentives that can influence their recommendations; research thoroughly.

34. Disregard Social Media Filters

Recognize that social media images are often filtered and posed, and do not use them as realistic beauty standards or goals for aesthetic procedures.

35. Avoid Injectable Overfilling

Be cautious of overfilling with injectables like lip or cheek fillers, as they can last much longer than advertised, distort natural anatomy, and complicate future surgical procedures.

36. Avoid Premature Tissue Tightening

Younger patients (under 40-45) should generally avoid ultrasound or radiofrequency tissue tightening procedures, as they can cause fat atrophy and prematurely age the face.

37. Ensure Correct Procedure & Execution

To minimize the risk of bad cosmetic outcomes, ensure the chosen procedure is appropriate for your specific needs and that the surgeon has the technical skill to perform it correctly.

38. Balance Treatment Aggression/Downtime

When considering skin resurfacing, understand the trade-off between treatment aggression (more aggressive = better results) and downtime (more aggressive = longer recovery), and choose based on your personal tolerance.

39. Stack Light Ablative Treatments

For less downtime, commit to lighter ablative treatments (e.g., erbium laser) once a quarter, as the cumulative effect over time can mimic a single, more aggressive CO2 laser.

40. Combine Non-Ablative Skin Therapies

Consider combining non-ablative therapies, such as a clear and brilliant laser with a light chemical peel, for synergistic effects and cumulative skin improvement with minimal downtime.

41. Choose Peels for Darker Skin

Individuals with darker skin tones (higher Fitzpatrick types) should generally opt for chemical peels over ablative laser resurfacing, as peels offer better depth control and lower risk of permanent pigment problems.

42. Prepare Skin for Laser

If considering ablative laser resurfacing with a darker skin tone, prepare your skin with a regimen to control pigment cells, such as hydroquinone, to reduce the risk of pigment problems.

43. Protect Scars From Sun

Be diligent about staying out of the sun, especially after a skin injury or procedure, to aid healing and minimize scar visibility.

44. Avoid Conflicted Longevity Doctors

Be very careful with longevity doctors who sell both diagnostic tests and proprietary treatments or supplements for the results of those tests, as this creates a conflict of interest.

45. Support Ad-Free Health Content

Become a member of Peter Attia’s podcast/website to support ad-free health and wellness content and gain access to exclusive member-only benefits.

46. Retinoid Next to Toothbrush

Keep your retinoid tube right next to your toothbrush as a visual cue to remember to apply it nightly, especially if you tend to forget.

47. Insight 47

Commit to a basic daily skincare regimen: AM includes cleanser, antioxidant serum, and mineral sunscreen; PM includes cleanser, antioxidant serum, and retinoid.